Sikandra Travel Guide

Welcome
to Sikandra, a supurb of Agra, only 13 km. from the Agra Fort, the last resting
place of the Mughal emperor Akbar. Akbar was the greatest of the Mughal emperors
and one of the most secular minded royalties of his time. He was the heir to
a long tradition of oriental refinement, a great patron of the arts, literature,
philosophy and science.
A visit to Akbar's monument opens before one, the completeness of Akbar's
personality as completely as the Taj Mahal does of Mumtaz Mahal's. Akbar's
vast, beautifully carved, red-ochre sandstone tomb is set amidst a lush garden.
Akbar himself planned his own tomb and selected a suitable site for it. To
construct a tomb in one's lifetime was a Tartary custom which the Mughals
followed religiously. Akbar's son Jahangir completed the construction of this
pyramidal tomb in 1613.
APPROACH:
One can approach the monument from the Southern gate only. Ticket counter
is located to the left of this gate.
THE GARDEN:
The tomb stands in the center of a vast garden, which is enclosed by high
walls on all sides. In the middles of each enclosing wall is a monumental
gateway. The whole garden is divided into four equal quarters on the conventional
charbhag plan. Each quarter is separated by a high terrace or raised path
with a narrow shallow water channel running at the center. Each terrace has
in the center, a tank with fountains.
GATEWAY:
Although there is only one entrance in use today there exist four red sandstone
gates which lead to the mausoleum complex. The decoration on the gateways
is strikingly bold, with large mosaic patterns set into it. The gateway's
four minarets rising from the corners are particularly striking. Built of
red sandstone, the minarets are inlaid with white marble polygonal patterns;
the pleasing Proportions & Profuse surface ornamentation makes the gateways
very impressive. These gateways reflect a curious hybrid of different styles
of architecture-Hindu, Muslim Christian and a patent mixture of Akbar's typical
style.
MAUSOLEUM:
A broad paved causeway lead to the tomb, which has five storeys and is in
the shape of a truncated pyramid. The main tomb has a unique square design
which is unparalleled by all other Mughal buildings,
GROUND FLOOR:
The ground floor has spacious cloisters on all four sides except in the middle
of the southern side. The cloisters are divided into numerous bays by massive
piers & arches. Each bay measures 22 feet square. The centre of the southern
side is occupied by a vestibule, which has been ornamented very profusely
with exquisite carvings, artistic paintings & inlay work in geometric
and floral designs. An inclined and descending passage leads from this vestibule
to the mortuary chamber. The tombstone of Akbar is placed in the centre of
this room. Geometrical designs achieved by the mosaics of glazed tiles or
of colored stones, predominate the tomb. The mosaic work is generally in the
tass eleated style, that is, square or rectangular pieces of colored stones
were assembled and arranged together to form patterns. Semi-precious stones
were inlaid into a hollowed depression in the white marble slab by Emperor
Jahangir later on . Akbar's daughters Shakrul Nisha Begum and Aram Bano are
also entombed on this floor.
SECOND STOREY:
The second storey has an arcaded verandah on each side which is composed of
23 bays. The use of an ornamental arch and square pillar has brought about
unique composition.
THIRD AND FOURTH STOREYS:
These storeys are smaller in size than the one below it. They have an identical
arrangement of arches supported on pilllars and chhatris attached on the exterior
to each façade.
FIFTH STOREY:
The fifth storey is entirely in white marble as against the lower storeys
which are finished in red sandstone.
ITMAD-UD-DAULA:
Itmad-ud-Daula is the tomb of Mirza Ghiyas Beg, a Persian who had obtained
service in Akbar's court. The tomb set a starting precedent as the first Mughal
building to be face with white inlaid marble and contrasting stones. Unlike
the Taj it is small, intimate and, since it is less frequented, has a gentle
serenity.
ABOUT MIRZA GHIYAS BEG:
Mirza Ghiyas Beg was the son of Khawaja Muhammad Sharif who was the wazir
(Prime Minister) of Khurasan and then of Yazd under the Safawid Emperors of
Persia. After the death of his father, Mirza Ghiyas came to India and was
introduced to Akbar who enrolled him in the imperial service. Mirza was an
able man and rose high by the sheer dint of his merit. On Jahangir's succession
in 1605 he became Wazir and received the title of Itmad-ud-Daula (Pillar of
Government). Jahangir fell in love with his daughter Mehrunnissa, better known
as Nurjahan, and married her in 1611. It was Nur Jahan who built the tomb
for her father in 1628 AD, 6 years after his death.
ENTRANCE:
A sandstone pathway leads to the main tomb which stands on a low platform
(4m high and 45m square). The tomb is in the centre of a Charbagh, the four-quartered
garden, measuring 540 ft and enclosed on all sides by high walls.
THE GARDEN SETTING:
False gateways, which may be appropriately called water-pavilions, have been
constructed in the centre of the north and south sides. The west side has
in its middles a multi- storeyed and multi-roomed pavilion. It overhangs the
river impressively and is so open and abundantly airy that it could have served
the purpose of a pleasure-pavilion during the lifetime of Itmad-ud-Daula .
These subsidiary structures magnificently flank the central edifice on all
sides. The shallow water-channels, which originally took water from two overhead
tanks situated on the riverside, run on all sides of the garden and around
the mausoleum. Sunk in the middles of the raised, stone-paved pathways and
associated with regularly set lotus ponds and cascades, the channels divide
the charbagh into four equal quarters, stretching from the middle of each
side to the centre of the plinth of the main mausoleum.
THE MAIN TOMB:
The main gateway, and also the side pavilions, are constructed of red sandstone,
with inlaid designs in white marble. The main tomb is of white marble but
it stands on a plinth of red sandstone, having in the centre, of each side
opposite the central arch, a tank with a fountain. The tomb is square in plan,
with octagonal towers attached to the corners. The towers attain a circular
form above the terrace and are surmounted by circular chhatris. Each façade
of the tomb is composed of three arches, the central one providing the entrance,
the other two on the sides being closed with beautiful trellis screens. Each
side is protected above by a chhjja and a perforated balustrade. The jalies
have been carved very delicately and appear more to be made of ivory rather
than of white marble. The tomb has inscriptional designs in abundance. More
than seventy six Quranic verses in the Hiuluth script have been artistically
carved on white marble panels which are distributed all over the building.
THE INTERIOR OF THE TOMB:
The interior is composed of a central mortuary hall housing the cenotaphs
of Nur Jahan's mother Asmat Begum and father Itmad-ud-Daula, four oblong rooms
on the sides and four square chambers on the corners-all interconnected through
common doorways. The corner rooms contain tombstones of some near relations
of Nur Jahan including that of her daughter Ladli Begum from her first husband
Sher Afghan. Marble screens of geometric lattice work permit soft lightning
of the inner chamber. Engraved on the walls of the chamber is the recurring
theme of a wine flask with snakes as handles. The main chamber which contains
the tomb of Itmad-ud-Daula and his wife, is richly decorated with mosaics
and semi-precious stones inlaid in white marble.